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The New Constellations of Fashion « DressLab : clothes+music+art
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The New Constellations of Fashion

Author: Estel Vilaseca

Section: NOTES

Date: 03.2013


Now that the Parisian calendar is once again underway the pantheon of the fashion industry is busy creating new constellations worthy of our admiration. In addition to the stars that we all know so well, the Balenciagas, Celines and Givenchys, there are many exquisite diamonds that shine with a light that is all their own. After cruising the firmament in search of our own particular celebrities, we have drawn a new stellar map that includes all the rising constellations of the fashion world. Their time is coming soon, so remember their names, for tomorrow they will be the ones guiding the tendencies.


Constelaciones de Moda l DRESSLAB

The most dazzling of these stars is Christopher Kane, probably the independent designer with the brightest future in the galaxy. Thanks to an injection of capital from the PPR Group, Kane, who turned thirty last year, has recently launched a superlative collection that widens his career horizons. The collection is a fascinatingly hypnotic narrative summary of all the designer has learned up until now and is worth relishing from beginning to end. Alongside Christopher, Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto continue to develop new techniques in volume, prints and fabrics, and each new season sees them both raising the ante, Katrantzou with her spectacular floating prints and Peter with his intriguing works in plastic inspired by the Spanish renaissance artists.


Constelaciones de Moda l DRESSLAB

JW Anderson, Carven, Marques’Almeida and Simone Rocha all share the search for a new femininity and their collections include proposals that attempt to escape revival tendencies in an effort to create alternative approaches to women’s fashion. By employing a continuous dialog between the past and the present, they appeal both to the intellect and to less obvious references in their search for the new “new look”. Their creations consistently contain small doses of irony and are designed for women who are not given to self-complacency. JW Anderson has been dubbed the successor to Kane and Simone Rocha, with just three London cat-walk collections under her belt is a new revelation thanks to her already recognisable style. Carven, while they are the most veteran of those mentioned here, continue to revolutionise their style.


Constelaciones de Moda l DRESSLAB

This is fashion at the service of powerful, wealthy women, characterised by luxurious fabrics and telling silhouettes. The layered combinations of Proenza Schouler and David Koma are suggestive of battle garments for protection against these difficult times. Alexander Wang’s fur boxing gloves are a KO to ungracious adversaries. With angular volumes for unworldly goddesses, Cushnie et Ochs is a new incorporation for the Iron Ladies of the future.


Constelaciones de Moda l DRESSLAB

On the opposite end of the scale we have a group of stars with a more emotive, austere, minimalist brilliance that suggests survival through sobriety. The fluid vestments of Damir Doma embrace the spirit on those long treks through the desert. Christian Wijnants has created comfortable, realist fashion and, continuing with the ‘less is more’ philosophy, J. JS Lee and Phoebe English are recent incorporations to the fashion calendar that are not to be missed.


Constelaciones de Moda l DRESSLAB

For this little cluster of free-thinking stars fashion is a game that must continually be reinvented. The impossible dresses of Thom Browne submerge us in a fable of love and terror. Meadham Kirchoff are also a law unto themselves, presenting dresses that let the imagination run wild. London is also home to creative designers such as Louise Gray and Sister by Sibling, who dazzled us with their creative use of knitwear in one of the more surprising collections we have seen.


Text+Collage_ Estel Vilaseca



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